The Innovation That’s Killing Restaurant Culture

https://www.theatlantic.com/culture/2025/10/food-delivery-america/684700/
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The Innovation That’s Killing Restaurant Culture

This article explores how food delivery services have fundamentally reshaped the restaurant industry and dining culture in America. It details the rise of apps like Grubhub and DoorDash, their venture-capital-backed growth strategies involving discounts, and how the pandemic accelerated their adoption. The piece argues that while convenient for consumers, delivery has become 'extractive' for restaurants, leading to reduced in-person dining, higher costs through commissions, changes in menu design, and a shift in how restaurants operate, often at the expense of their traditional culture and financial stability. The author highlights concerns about culinary innovation, the labor conditions of delivery workers, and the long-term impact on local neighborhoods.

Note

it's pretty telling that one of the main interviewees is a former delivery app executive.

the "victory garden" comment was hilarious and true. the pandemic did find its way into every aspect of our lives, not just health. yet, like with zoom, government trust and remote work, the pandemic didn't really introduce anything new, it just accelerated what was happening.

what is missing from this article is that restaurants have been changing long before food delivery. most are generally unprofitable and margins are getting thinner every year with employees losing out (and fighting back for basics like health care).

food apps are also preventing people from walking more and interacting with other locals. this just accelerates deeper issues with restaurants that are preexisting.

perhaps we need a more tangible victory garden this time around.

Published

2025

Summary

This article explores how food delivery services have fundamentally reshaped the restaurant industry and dining culture in America. It details the rise of apps like Grubhub and DoorDash, their venture-capital-backed growth strategies involving discounts, and how the pandemic accelerated their adoption. The piece argues that while convenient for consumers, delivery has become 'extractive' for restaurants, leading to reduced in-person dining, higher costs through commissions, changes in menu design, and a shift in how restaurants operate, often at the expense of their traditional culture and financial stability. The author highlights concerns about culinary innovation, the labor conditions of delivery workers, and the long-term impact on local neighborhoods.

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